Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno, 2019 SO040125 Trousselle and 2016 — universally considered

and 2016 — universally considered one of the great Barbaresco vintages of the modern era — gave them a wine of extraordinary purity

herby roast chicken

Drink it neat or over one big rock

whole clusters when the fruit calls for it — and keeps a light hand throughout

Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno, 2019 SO040125 Trousselle and 2016 — universally consideredElio Sandri is one of Barolo's most coveted traditionalists, farming 7. 5 hectares at Cascina Disa in the Perno cru of Monforte d'Alba, where he lives and works on site. He makes wine the old way: cement fermentation, long aging in big Slavonian botti, no fining, no filtration, sulfur only at bottling. This is his straight Barolo Perno from the strong 2019 vintage, Nebbiolo at its truest, both exuberant and austere. With only a few thousand bottles